For the Love of Risotto

I come clean!  In our house it’s the Rvvv who cooks the rice (that and a couple more dishes such as Yorkshire Puddings and an excellent Ragu).  It’s not that I cannot make it.  It’s just that I get bored part way through and unconsciously meander into some other activity until the smell pervading the kitchen (reminiscent of bonfire night) brings me back to the present time.  This, of course, ends in tears - or rather a milky, starchy mass of tasteless mush some of which would by choice prefer to stay on the bottom of the pan forever. 

When it comes to Risotto however this is not a problem because it is by definition rather needy (i.e. requiring constant attention during cooking).   This is a good thing because there is no opportunity for boredom and there are few things that compare with a good risotto.  Any dish that can taste so nice with just a few ingredients – and most of them pretty healthy – has got to be good.  Even better, you can make Arancini (fabulous moist mouthfuls of risotto heaven in a crisp coating) with the leftovers so this makes two dishes in one! 

The sweet Butternut Squash, salty Feta cheese and fragrant Sage in this recipe are great for both the Risotto and the Arancini and just a little bit different to the norm. 

When you serve the leftovers to your family or friends, don’t worry about telling them that you’ve put your feet up for a couple of hours with your book and let them continue to think you’ve been slaving away for hours in the kitchen – surely it’s not a lie if they simply jump to that conclusion themselves?

1 Onion finely chopped
2 cloves of Garlic finely chopped
25g Butter
2 litres good fresh stock (I like to use Chicken unless I am serving up to Vegetarians)
400g Risotto Rice
100g unsalted butter, cold and diced
100g Feta Cheese
Handful of fresh Sage (finely sliced)
1 Butternut Squash (peeled and chopped into small mouth-size pieces)
25g Parmesan or Grand Padano
1 Glass of Wine (pour it as though you were drinking it yourself so a decent glass full)

First of all, roast the butternut squash with the sage and garlic in the oven for around 20 minutes with a drizzle of olive oil mixed into it.  It should be just cooked through but still al-dente.  Remove from oven and set aside.

To prepare the risotto, bring the stock to a boil and leave it simmering on the stove next to you.

Sauté the onion in 25g butter in a large pan until it is just starting to go translucent, you do not want to brown it.  Add the rice and stir through trying to get all the rice coated in the butter-onion mixture.  Add the glass of wine and continue to stir frequently while the wine reduces to practically nothing, this will remove the alcohol but leave the lovely wine taste. 

Start adding the stock a ladleful at a time and stir to avoid the rice sticking.  As the stock is absorbed by the rice keep adding stock a ladleful at a time (I did warn you this is a needy dish).  After about 10 minutes you can add the roasted butternut squash and sage to the rice mixture and continue to add the stock as before combining as you go by stirring the risotto.

At this point you want to start keeping an eye on the risotto in terms of how much longer it will need cooking.  It will normally take between 18-25 minutes to cook depending on the risotto rice.  You should be looking for a slightly al-dente texture with some looseness to the dish.  When you think it is just about where it should be, add the feta cheese and seasoning and stir to combine.  Be careful when adding salt as the feta is salty anyway so you may not need as much as you would normally use.

To finish, grate in some parmesan (to taste) and the cold cubes of butter (again amount to suit your own taste).  Grab a spoon or fork and dive in.

Now the chances are you may have some left.  If you do, leave it to cool in the refrigerator overnight and then the next day scoop out dessert spoonfuls roll in egg and then in breadcrumbs and deep fry until golden brown.  


From a gorgeous Risotto to Aranchini in a couple of steps!  These are great either hot or at room temperature and make a nice nibble with drinks.

Drunken Puddleduck

Imagine if you will long, lazy lunches outside in the sunshine consisting of simple foods cooked with bags of flavour and good company which cannot be surpassed.  Without wanting to preach, I find it is often the simplest of occasions I remember more than the rest.  Times when you find yourself with others who are just happy being there.  No pretentious acts, no competition, just a desire to be there, chat about the inanities of life and giggle at the absurd with the people you love most in the world.  This, for me, is what the best times in life bring to the table (pardon the pun) – just being you - loving and being loved for it.

I just love the versatility of duck.  I love the different ways you can cook it, the different cuts and dependent upon how you cook it, the way it can take on a different texture and taste.  To me, duck is quite the chameleon. 

I especially love Confit of Duck.  I first tried Confit in France while there on holiday and no matter how often I eat it or where I am in the world, it always reminds me of easy going, laugh out loud lunches with friends.

This dish needs a little preparation but otherwise is so simple it can hardly be called cooking.  It does however make you drool with wanting for more and sounds as though you have spent hours cooking rather than the reality which is that it pretty much cooks itself.

Given the influence of the cooking liquid used I have given this dish a name which, I believe, is entirely appropriate – not to you but the dish.  If you don’t like Port then just substitute with white wine, it is still remarkably good.

P.S. For those who have not tried this before, Confit (French) (pronounced "con-fee") is a term for describing kinds of food which are slowly cooked in their own juices and/or other substances for both flavour and preservation.  Sealed after cooking in their juices, the food will often last for several weeks which make it a great dinner party choice.  Duck and Chicken are the usual suspects for Confit.

Duck Confit
4 Duck Legs
Rock Salt (enough to cover the duck legs - sounds alot but don't worry you are not going to eat it)
1 tsp Black Peppercorns
4 Garlic Cloves (peeled and sliced)
2 Bay Leaves
4 Thyme Sprigs
100ml Port (or Wine if you prefer)


The duck needs to be prepared a day in advance.  Place the duck in a container skin side up and cover with the salt, peppercorns, bay and the thyme.  Place in the fridge overnight or for around 8 hours.


The next day...


Remove the thyme.  Wash the duck legs to remove the salt and dry with a paper towel.  Place in a tight fitting saucepan, add the garlic and the thyme and pour over the port.  Place over a low heat until the port just starts to bubble and then place in a low oven (about 110 degrees) for about for 3 hours.  Check it after this time, it should be very tender and have lots of juice (made from the port and the duck fat).


Leave the duck in the juices to cool.  The fat will protect it and keep it moist while it is refrigerated until you wish to eat it.  


Butter Bean, Wild Mushroom and Pancetta Stew
2 cans Butter Beans
8 slices Pancetta or Streaky Bacon (chopped)
2 Shallots
200g Wild Mushrooms
1 Garlic Clove (peeled and finely chopped)
2 sprigs Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
900g Chicken Stock
2 tbsp Olive Oil
Handful of Flat Leaf Parsley (finely chopped)
100g Chestnuts (cooked and chopped into quarters)


In a saute pan (or large frying pan), heat through the olive oil and add the shallots gently cooking until starting to caramelise.  Add the pancetta, garlic, herbs and wild mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes.  Add the butter beans, chicken stock and chestnuts and cook for a further 20 minutes on a low heat.  


Heat the oven to 200 degrees.  Remove the duck from the pan and place on a rack in the oven for 10 minutes until the skin is crispy and the duck heated through (this should take 10-15 minutes).


Season the bean, mushroom and pancetta stew to taste then stir in the parsley just before serving.  Place the duck on top of the stew.  


Sit down with friends, a bottle of wine and practice your French.  Now tell me that is not wonderful...

Summer Love (or Butternut Squash Ravioli with Sage Butter, Orange & Toasted Hazelnuts)

It appears that our summer is planning on being rather short-lived this year with the occasional ray of sunshine being preceded and, when it does manage to struggle out from behind the clouds, usurped by a torrential downpour of rain. At least that’s what seems to be happening in my neck of the woods. Never one to let such things bother me; I simply decided that a light summery supper was in order regardless of how gloomy it was outside.  Clearly I couldn’t eat it alfresco (let’s face it that would be plain daft given the wet conditions), so I used my ever loyal imagination and enjoyed a lovely supper in the warmth and radiance... of my Aga!

The pasta recipe comes from an old Rick Stein recipe, I used strong plain flour but you choose.  The filling can be modified to suit you, try pine nuts in the filling or instead of the hazelnuts or be very authentic and use almonds like the Italians.

P.S.  I know it may not look the most appetising dish in this photo but trust me, it tastes divine.

Pasta

225g Plain Flour

¼ tsp Salt

½ tsp Olive Oil

2 medium Eggs

4 medium Egg Yolks

Filling

1 Butternut Squash

150g Ricotta

25g Parmesan Cheese

Salt & Pepper

Drizzle of Olive Oil

Sauce

25g Butter

Small bunch Sage (more or less to suit)

1 tsp finely grated Orange Zest

First of all, peel and cut the Squash into small pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and olive oil.  Roast in the oven for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.  Remove from the oven and resist all temptation to eat straight from the roasting tin.  At this time, the squash will taste wonderful and will be begging you to forget all about the pasta and sauce and eat it straight from the tin forgetting all others who need feeding and indulge only yourself... be strong!  It is worth it.

To make the Pasta, combine all of the ingredients in a food processor and blitz until it comes together.  Knead the pasta for around 15 minutes on a floured surface (with more to add if needed) until it becomes smooth, silky and elastic.  Wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for 20 minutes.

In the food processor, blitz the Squash, Ricotta and Parmesan.  It will now resemble strange coloured mash potato – that is ok.  Put aside until you are ready to use it.

Now, back to the pasta. 

Remove from the fridge and roll out either on a pasta machine or with a rolling pin until very thin (thinnest level on the pasta machine).  Lay out on a floured surface and put teaspoons of the filling onto the Pasta leaving space between the filling to cut out the Ravioli.  Brush water in-between the fillings and place a further piece of Pasta over the top pressing down around and in-between the mounds of filling and try to remove any air that may be trapped.  Cut out the Ravioli either with a cutter or knife.  Place on a floured sheet and cover until you are ready to cook.

Lightly chop the Hazelnuts and place in the oven for a couple of minutes until they just start to roast.  Set aside.

Place a pan of water to boil.  When it comes to a rolling boil, add the Ravioli and boil for 4 minutes.  Meanwhile, place the Butter in a shallow pan and fry until it starts to froth.  Add the Zest and Sage and cook for a couple of minutes. 

Drain the Pasta and plate up.  Pour over the Butter sauce, sprinkle over the toasted Hazelnuts (and more Parmesan if using).

Gorgeous!

The Perils of Domestic Bliss and the Virtuous Diet...

Today I find myself alone with the dogs and chickens as the Rrvvv has driven off to the airport looking frighteningly smart all suited and booted for a couple of days in Ireland on business.  I have noticed that during these circumstances my diet regime is far more disciplined.  These must be the days my body craves for when the 5-a-day simply happens without the need for stern words and a good look in the mirror for added persuasion, the alcohol stays in the drinks cabinet and the portion control is similar to that of a 5-year old.  What happens the rest of the time can only be attributed to a wanton desire to become a domestic goddess.

I will be honest and tell you that this state of mind and being is not something in me which extends to other homely considerations such as ironing and cleaning (urggh!) but is something that is remarkably strong in the kitchen.  When feeding others (one or multiple), I find myself dreaming up dishes to warm the heart, take the tough day away and satiate the soul.  Unfortunately these tend to be fairly generous portions (I am slowly getting this under control) and are not always within the allotted calorie count.  They do however tend to achieve the job at hand.

So for the lone diner tonight, the calling from the refrigerator comes in the form of the green leafy stuff and all things good for you (ok most things good for you). 

Having made enough Wasabi cream to feed the whole of Japan last night for a sesame seared beef fillet dish, I feel it would be wasteful to ignore the remainder of it today.   Teaming it up with some lovely smoked salmon, king prawns and warm lime vinaigrette makes me feel both righteous and just a little bit ‘goddess-like’.

... Perhaps it is possible to be both after all?!

Serves 2

100g Smoked Salmon

8 Tiger King Prawns (raw if possible)

Mix of Salad Leaves (I like herby leaves and spinach)

¼ Cucumber (cut into julienne)

A few chives (chopped into 2”-ish lengths)

¼ each of mixed Sweet Peppers

Small bunch of Coriander (roughly chopped)

Small pan of water

1 tsp white wine vinegar

For the Warm Vinaigrette:

1 clove Garlic (grated)

2 tbsp Olive Oil

½ Lime (zest and juice)

1 tsp Honey
Salt and Pepper

For the Wasabi Cream:
2 tbsp Crème Fraiche
½ tsp Wasabi Paste (more or less depending on how hot you like it)


First of all make up the wasabi cream.  Combine the crème fraiche with the wasabi paste and adjust the quantities to suit your taste (in terms of heat).  If you don’t have wasabi you can just use horseradish with the crème fraiche.  Put to one side in the refrigerator until ready to assemble.

Prepare the salad by thinly slicing the peppers (the thin slice on a mandolin works well for this) and then the cucumber – you are looking for a fine julienne.  Combine all the salad ingredients together in a bowl and put to one side.

Butterfly the prawns by slicing down their backs part way through (they will open up like a butterfly when cooked) and removing the black vein.  Heat a pan of water with a teaspoon of white wine vinegar and a little salt and quickly cook the prawns in the boiling water (they will take around 1-2 minutes).  Remove from the heat and drain.  Leave to cool.

Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a small pan and heat gently.  Add the ginger and garlic and cook through (making sure not to brown them).  Add the honey and lime juice/zest and stir to combine.  Remove from the heat. 

To assemble, drizzle the wasabi cream over the bottom of the plate.  Pile the smoked salmon and prawns into the centre of the plate.  Pile the leaves into the centre of the plate and dress with the warm vinaigrette.

Sit back and indulge in healthy, gorgeous food with your halo intact!

The Collective "Ooooh"

After 6 years of attending Cricket matches I still find myself in the position of being a novice when it comes to the game of starchy whites and a blatant display of ball rubbing.  I understand the basics but the technical tactics hold very little in the way of interest for me. 

Having said that, there is something about cricket which is always so very civilised and keeps me going back for more.  Maybe it is the way the crowd come together replete with stylish (and not so stylish) sun hats, superman outfits and cool boxes and chorus in the collective ‘ooooh’ at pivotal moments in the game.  It is, perhaps, one of the very few sports in which hundreds of people seem to be of one mind and voice at exactly the same time.  The universal language of cricket crowd participation is not extensive but seems from my seat to be only 5 or 6 phrases.  Obviously there is the “oooooh” normally followed by a concurrence of “he played that very well”, the cries of the ecstatic “oh yes” and of course its partner (which is worked up from a quiet but hopeful beginning and ends in a minor frenzy when it all works out) “ooooohhhhh..... yesssssss!” and finally the questioned but no less important “referral?”.

The volume of the crowd is undeniably linked to the excitement of the game.  That may seem an obvious thing to say but it is by no means an obvious connection.  The more boring or tactical the game, the louder and more raucous the crowd participation is as they begin to make their own entertainment.   The enthusiasm and spontaneity of volleying a beach ball around the stands during moments of cricket monotony and the – in any other circumstances – bizarre games which hold everyone’s rapt attention such as ‘how high can we stack beer glasses while passing them around the stand?’ are strangely engrossing.

However entertaining all this is, for me the best part of any day at the cricket has got to be food related.  Today’s glamorous lunch affaire was held over 8 fold up plastic seats, a plethora of plastic food containers and matching knives and forks.  White “tea” or red “tea” was on offer having already partaken in a very ‘early doors’ glass or two of Gordon’s finest. 

The trick to the cricket lunch is to make it easy to eat and yet more exciting than the everyday lunch menu (and of course making enough to feed all of your guests and most of the stand you are in).  In anticipation of achieving this, yesterday I came up with an idea for a Morrocan Lamb Samosa while musing over a can of Chick Peas (excitement sometimes reaches fever pitch in our house).  Clearly there was more on offer for lunch than just this dish but it did work out surprisingly well and is great as one of many snacks for a day at the cricket.  Add more heat if you want to or just leave it as a warm fuzzy in your mouth.

Makes 24 Samosas or 48 Canapés

500g minced lamb

1 small onion (finely chopped)

3 cloves of garlic (finely chopped)

Drizzle of Olive Oil

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp cayenne pepper

Seasoning

1 tin chick peas

2 tbsp sundried tomato puree

½ cup chicken stock

Zest of 1 lemon (can substitute with dried apricots for a more fruity flavour)

10 cherry tomatoes (quartered)

Handful of fresh coriander

2 packs filo pastry

50g unsalted butter (melted)

Heat a pan with some olive oil and add the shallot, cook until turning translucent.  Add the garlic, and all the spices and cook for 1-2 minutes until the spices release their aroma.  Add in the minced lamb and brown off (do not add more oil as the lamb will release its own).  When browned, add the tomato puree and the zest of the lemon.  Mix well while over the heat, add the chicken stock, chick peas and tomatoes and cook for about an hour in the oven at 180 degrees.  Remove from the oven after this time and add in the chopped coriander and season to taste.  Leave to cool.

When the lamb is completely cool, start preparing the pastry.  Cut each pastry sheet in half down the longest side leaving you with long strips of filo pastry.  Taking one sheet at a time (cover the remaining pastry when not in use with a damp tea towel to stop it from drying out) brush the melted butter around the edges of the pastry.  Put a dessert spoon of the lamb in the top corner and fold over in a triangle.  Keep folding this triangle over (long side and then short side) so the meat becomes completely encased in the pastry.  When you have folded over the entire sheet, brush the triangular pastry with the melted butter and place on a non stick baking sheet.  Continue with the remaining sheets.

Bake in the oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees.  Remove from the oven, leave to cool for a few minutes before trying one (cooks prerogative).  

A Shot of Gazpacho

I love the fresh and spiky taste of Gazpacho.  I serve them in shot glasses for canapes which make for a great addition at any party.  


Gazpacho
Breadcrumbs made from 1 medium slice bread (I make mine from sundried tomato bread but white bread will work fine)
2 Sweet Red Peppers
1 Cucumber
4 large Tomatoes
1 clove Garlic
Juice of 1/2 Lemon
4 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 tsp Red Wine Vinegar
2 tsp Balsamic Vinegar
1/2 Red Onion
Tabasco - a few drops more if you want it really spicy
Seasoning
Fresh Basil (finely chopped)


Deseed and roughly chop the 1 and half of the peppers and half the cucumber. 


Place this and the remaining mixture except for the Basil in a blender and pulse until smooth and liquefied. Pass this mixture though a sieve retaining the juice, push the mixture through the sieve as much as you can to get all the juice.  Add the breadcrumbs to the liquid, blend again to get the breadcrumbs and juice as smooth as possible.


Season to taste and add in the fresh Basil.  


Put the gazpacho in the fridge for at least a couple of hours.  When you are ready to serve, finely chop the remaining cucumber and pepper half.  Pour the gazpacho into the serving glasses (they look great in martini glasses or shot glasses for a canape sized serving).  Sprinkle a couple of the pepper and cucumber pieces on top of the gazpacho, drizzle a little more olive oil over the top and serve.


Apetito Buena! 

Tomato Tarte Tatin (A Sensory Addiction)

I think I am more addicted to the smell which comes off the Tomato vine when picking them than in the actual eating (although that is rather lovely too).  

So in preparation for the glorious Tomato picking activity which is due to start any time now, here is a simply scrumptious Tomato Tarte Tatin recipe which is great for supper with a salad and will undoubtedly please both carnivores and vegetarians alike.  The addition of Basil at the end gives it an added freshness to the sweet and tarty filling.  

So... when you've finished sniffing your Tomato vines, try this one out.


Tomato Tarte Tatin (serves 6 for supper)
1 pack of Puff Pastry
6 large Vine Tomatoes
1 Leek (thinly sliced)
1 Red Onion (thinly sliced)
1 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar
1 tbsp Red Wine
2 tbsp Caster Sugar
Drizzle of Olive Oil
25g Butter
Sprig of fresh Thyme
Small handful of fresh Basil
Small tub of Creme Fraiche
Egg wash
Handful of toasted Pine Nuts


If you have a tarte tatin dish then use it but otherwise any non-stick cake tin (without a removable bottom) will work just fine.


In a frying pan over a low heat gently fry the leaks and red onion in the olive oil and butter until turning translucent.  Add the sugar, red wine and vinegar and a sprinkling of thyme and cook over a low heat to caramelise, this will take around 15 minutes (stir occasionally to ensure they do not stick or burn).  Season to taste.  


Slice the tomatoes horizontally (they look beautiful cut this way as you can see the whole structure of the tomato).  Coat the tomatoes in the caramelised juice and then place face up so they cover the base of the tatin dish. Spoon over the leek and onion mixture including all the juices so it covers the tomatoes and any gaps.  Place in the oven at 180 degrees for 20 minutes.  During this time the onion mixture and tomatoes will caramelise some more.  When you remove the mixture from the oven there needs to be almost no liquid left in the tin otherwise the tarte may be abit soggy when finished.  Leave to cool in the fridge.


Roll out the Puff Pastry to the right size and lay over the top of the tatin dish.  Cut the pastry around the dish and push the edge down around the inside edge of the dish.  Egg wash the pastry and then bake in an oven at 190 degress for 25-30 minutes until puffed up and golden.  


Run a knife around the edge of the pastry and place a flat plate or serving platter over the top of the tatin dish.  Take a safe hold on the plate and tatin dish and invert them so the plate is now on  the bottom.  Remove the tatin dish and sprinkle with fresh Basil and toasted Pine Nuts.


Serve with a spoonful of Creme Fraiche and maybe a Parmesan and Rocket Salad.  


This dish is great both hot and cold and if you want it more substantial goats cheese compliments it well.


P.S. I know that the addition of leeks and onions deviates somewhat from the traditional tarte tatin but the tomatoes are still the main event!

Calves Liver & Caramelised Onion Bruscetta

With only a few weeks to go before leaving the kitchen on an expedition to find sun, relaxation and new food ideas (aka holiday), it is the time for the annual ritual of eating healthily.  This is performed in the vain hope that my body will realise it really can lose all those pounds in just a short time in order to replicate a more bardo-esque stature when in reduced clothing.

However I am nothing if not a realist and believe that fasting or eating plain cabbage for any period at all is really not a thing that makes me or anyone else around me happy.  My thoughts on dieting therefore rely on a reduction of the lovely creamy, melt in your mouth substance that is Chocolate, more alcohol free nights, more exercise and more of the leafy green stuff.

The newspapers have recently informed us that to lose weight we should eat less red meat.  They may be right but the problem is I just love meat (actually I love all foods). Calves Liver is one of my favourites and now that I understand it does not need to be cooked to within a milli-second of turning into a grainy substance and served up in gravy as per my childhood, it is even more tempting.  So when in the butchers farm shop last week it jumped up and down behind the counter lovingly calling me by name, it would have been plain rude of me to resist.  However, I am so disciplined in my ritual that I did do something a little different (including the green leafy stuff) and to my delight it was quite simply delectable.

So here it is, my heaven on a plate...

Rocket and Parmesan Salad
2 handfuls of Rocket Leaves

Drizzle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Drizzle of Balsamic
1 tsp Red Currant Jelly
1 clove Garlic
Parmesan shavings (quantity to taste)

Finely chop the garlic and mix with the olive oil, balsamic and red currant jelly (put them all in a jar together and shake to combine is the quickest and easiest way, you can also leave any remaining in the fridge to use over the next couple of days).  Set aside.

Bruscetta
1 Ciabatta Loaf
Olive Oil (drizzle)
1 clove Garlic

Slice the ciabatta to suit your own taste, we recommend 2 per person.
Rub the ciabatta with the garlic clove and drizzle a little olive oil on a baking sheet place the ciabatta slices on the sheet and drizzle a little more oil over the top.  Bake in a moderate oven for 5-8 minutes until lightly toasted.  Remove from the oven and leave to cool.  Any spare of these will last a few days in an airtight container.

Red Onion Marmalade
25g Butter
1 tbsp Olive Oil
3 large Red Onions (thinly sliced)
1 tbsp Sugar (we use caster but you could use granulated)
1 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar
1 tbsp Red Wine Vinegar
Seasoning

Melt the butter and a little olive oil in a saucepan, add the onions and cook until they become slightly translucent.  As they begin to brown, add in the sugar, both vinegars and seasoning.  Cook on a low heat for 15-20 minutes until nicely caramelised, soft and the liquid has almost evaporised.  Remove from the heat and put a lid on to keep warm.

Calves Liver
2 large slices of Calves Liver (ask your butcher to slice them thinly)
Plain Flour (for dusting)
Knob of Butter
Drizzle of Olive Oil
A few Sage leaves (thinly sliced)

Dust the calves liver in the flour and shake off excess.  Heat the butter and a drizzle of olive oil in a large flat bottomed pan and add the sage leaves.  When very hot add the calves liver and cook around 2 minutes each side (no more, remember it is thin and best when pink).  Remove from the pan and set aside to rest.

Without cleaning the pan, pour in the dressing and gently heat through.  Pour over the rocket leaves and toss in the parmesan cheese.

To assemble the dish, place the bruscetta on a plate, top with caramelised onions, then the calves liver and top with dressed rocket and parmesan shavings.

(You will probably have some onion marmalade left over.  Use it in a sandwich with blue cheese, in goats cheese and onions tarts, Croque Monsieur with added onion marmalade, the options are limitless).

Stilton Millefeuille with Pear and Vanilla Butter

I am not sure I have come across any dish which initially raises as many eyebrows but subsequently turns most people into a quivering wreck complete with drooling mouth syndrome (yes it really is that good).

A love of blue cheese and a glut of pears from the orchard made me search for ideas on putting together these gorgeous ingredients but in a different way.  This recipe is an adaptation of another dish I tried while on holiday.  The Pear and Vanilla Butter came from a friend's very old Jam and Preserves book and has been adapted accordingly.  I make these as starters, cheese course and canapés so your options are endless.

Once you tried it I can recommend the Pear and Vanilla Butter on Toast in the morning, evening and midnight munchies, the Stilton Mousse with just about anything (especially fresh Figs) and if you don't want to use Puff Pastry, try it with the Ricotta and Parmesan Biscuits.  Put them all together and you will be out to impress!


Pear and Vanilla Butter (makes approximately 2 medium jars)
2lbs Pears
Juice of 3 Lemons
1/2 Pt Water
1 Vanilla Pod (split)
1.5lbs Sugar (warmed)


Place the pears, water, lemon juice and vanilla in a saucepan, cover and bring to the boil.  Once boiled turn down to a simmer for 10 minutes.
Uncover and cook for a further 15 to 20 minutes until the pears are very soft.
Remove the vanilla pod, scrape the seeds out and add these to the mixture.  (Do not throw away the vanilla pod, wash it, dry it and put it in your sugar container for baking with - gives the sugar a lovely vanilla aroma and taste).
Empty the pear mixture into a liquidiser and blend to a puree.  Sieve the puree into a measuring jug discarding any bits remaining in the sieve.
For every pint of puree add 10oz of warmed sugar.  Empty back into the saucepan and stir over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved.  Bring to the boil for approximately 15 minutes until the butter has reached the consistency of a thick puree.
Empty into sterilized jars, seal and leave for 2 days before eating.


Stilton Millefeuille (makes approximately 20 canapés)
1 pack Puff Pastry (life really is to short to make this)
Egg Wash
250g Stilton Cheese (we like Colston Basset)
150g Mascarpone Cheese
197ml Creme Fraiche


First of all make the millefeuille.  Roll out the puff pastry and cut into 1" x 2" rectangles.  Brush with egg wash and score the top in a criss cross pattern.  Cook for 10-12 minutes at 190 degrees until golden in colour.
For the stilton mousse, using a food processor (or by hand if you'd rather) combine the stilton, mascarpone and creme fraiche together until it becomes the consistency of a smooth mousse (be careful not to overmix as the mascarpone can become quite loose).
To assemble the canape, cut the pastries in half horizontally and spread a little of the butter on the bottom, top with another pastry, pipe the stilton mousse onto the top and finish with another layer of pastry.
If you want to decorate the plate, scatter a few caramelised walnuts around the plates or top the millefeuille with a walnut.

Lovely Lemon Capers!

The great thing about doing something that you love is that is rarely becomes a chore, always makes demands on your creative side and never really feels like work in the traditional sense. Hard work, yes! But strangely (and sometimes masochistically after 18 hours) gratifying. So enough of my ‘look at me’ self gratification, it’s another day and another menu banging at my kitchen door awaiting my obsessive indulgence.

Having come from a place where wastage was not an immediate concern – I am ashamed to admit this was probably due to a lack of respect - I have suddenly found myself challenging the weekly ritual of emptying the fridge of out-of-date foodstuffs (those ‘must haves’ which seemed like a good idea when walking around the supermarket) or throwing out leftovers I felt sure "would come in handy for tomorrows dinner" and which I spent precious time packaging up into one of the thousand plastic containers which seem to multiply on their own and take up residence in the largest cupboard in the kitchen.

Tonight I find myself looking at a menu which involves yesterdays mash potato and a longing for capers (one of the side effects of working in food are an ever changing craving for using different ingredients, I think actually it is the subconscious testing my creative abilities). 

The inspiration for the Lemon Caper Dressing came from a holiday in Jamaica (it was served with Breaded Veal Escalope and was in jeopardy of becoming my staple diet while I was there - it was so good). On returning home to England I did what any recipe obsessed individual would do and I recreated it. Since then the accompanying options have been limitless and always gorgeous.

Salmon and Prawn Fishcakes with Lemon Caper Dressing (serves 4)

Salmon and Prawn Fishcakes

200g Salmon Fillet
200g King Prawns
150g Mash Potatoes
1 Egg Yolk
1 dsp chopped Flat Leaf Parsley
1 dsp chopped Dill
Zest of 1 Lemon
4 tbsp Plain Flour
2 eggs (whisked with a little water)
Seasoning
Plain Flour and Breadcrumbs for coating

Lemon Caper Dressing

Olive Oil
1 Shallot (finely chopped)
Juice of one Lemon
100g Unsalted Butter (straight from the fridge)
4 dsp Capers
Seasoning

This recipe is so quick, simple yet delicious it barely warrants instructions.

Roughly chop the salmon and prawns together and mix with the mash potato, zest, egg yolk, dill, coriander and seasoning until combined. Don’t over mix as the chunkiness is good for texture in the fishcake.

Put the egg wash, flour and breadcrumbs in to different bowls. Take dessert spoonfuls of the fish mixture and shape into balls (you can make them traditional fishcake shape if you want but I think they look a bit different this way). Roll them in the egg, then the flour and finally the breadcrumbs. Place onto a baking tray and when all the fishcakes have been prepared place the tray in the fridge for 30 minutes. This helps the crumb to set on the fishcake and reduces loss when cooking.

Heat the olive oil in a large flat frying pan and add the fish cakes a few at a time cooking until golden all over – just jiggle the pan around to ensure the fish cake is browned all over. When all the cakes have been fried place them in the oven on a low heat (120 ish degrees) to keep warm while you make the dressing.

Wipe out the frying pan and pour in 2 tablespoons of Olive Oil with the shallot until softened and translucent. Add the juice of 1 Lemon and the capers, cook for a couple of minutes. Whisk in the butter, cubed and taken directly from the fridge, (it should be cold when you add it so it acts as both an ingredient and also a thickener in the dressing). When melted and combined, season the sauce being careful with the addition of Salt as the Capers are salty to begin with.

Serve dressing with fishcakes and do what any self respecting foodie does... simply indulge!