Anyone For Drinkies?

After the detritus of Christmas wrapping paper has taken hold throughout the house, the next challenge is one of New Year celebrations. 

It is during this time we honour the ‘must get together’ conversations that have so far been tethered to the recesses of our minds in favour of a bottle of red and a roaring fire as the cold winter nights roll in.  Our hopes of such casually uttered mutterings being quickly forgotten are dashed along with the promised ‘non-drop’ needles on the Christmas tree.

But now with the imminent trip into the loft space in the vain attempt to find misplaced stockings and hastily wrapped baubles it is time to put on our party faces and expand our domestic goddess status to one of gracious host or hostess for the final few weeks of the year.

During the season where everyone seems to be in high spirits and the strain of throwing a party seems far less painful than normal, most of us will be contemplating some sort of soiree.

The question is how to do this with minimal fuss and effort.  Not because you’re lazy but just because you would like to enjoy the event too.  How do you create an easy and relaxed atmosphere where everyone enjoys themselves and no one (aka you) is left in the kitchen with the feeling of witnessing a great party with your nose pressed against the window viewing it from the outside?

The trick is to remember that less is often more.  But the little you do should be simple and fabulous!

• Do it in one take.  Try and get everyone together at once.  Overall less time consuming leaving you the remaining free weekends to accept everyone else’s invitations in return.
• To create a good impression you do not need to do masses of gourmet food with silver service and a resident butler.  Keep it simple by serving interesting canapés to eat rather than the full works.  Remember to focus on interesting rather than normal – anyone can do normal and if you wanted to be dull you wouldn’t be doing this at all.  Serve around 6-7 canapés per person with drinks and see if you can rope the kids in to help serve.  It’s a great way of making them feel like part of the party should it be possible to prise them away from the game console long enough to make the negotiation viable. 
• Serve a selection of drinks of just the right quantity to have everyone relaxed and enjoying themselves without the need to pour them messily into a taxi several hours later.  Wines, beers and soft drinks are perfectly acceptable should you not wish to break out the malt.
• Sound effects have a dual purpose.  The right music can help create the party atmosphere and has the added benefit of noise creation should the conversation wane at any time (unlikely but better to be prepared).  It’s probably best not to raid the teenagers’ iPod mix or play anything too highbrow for fear of creating entirely the wrong ambience.  Go for something generically easy on the ear and remember the volume control; it is supposed to be background noise rather than a disco or the Royal Albert Hall.
• Dress to Suit Yourself.  Most people like to dress up around Christmas time.  The ladies will likely put on newly purchased party frocks in order to get maximum return before the Christmas munchies have taken hold and the dress shrinks before their eyes.  Most men seem happy to either take consultation from their partners or at the very least throw on a good shirt with a pair of less worn jeans.  The point is people should be comfortable.
• Decorate.  We are not talking re-modelling the kitchen or painting the downstairs loo but a few choice Christmas decorations or seasonal flowers dotted around.  They remind everyone why they are there and promote a happy, seasonal feel.
• Give people a time-frame.  Don’t be afraid to invite people round for just a couple of hours.  The purpose is not to give them a weekend-break but to catch up with friends in a great atmosphere– after all it’s always best to leave people wanting more.
• And finally... stay calm and relax.  People will feed off your mood.  It’s a party not a judgement and your friends should be coming to see you not test your culinary or hostess skills.

Here are a few canapé ideas which can be made in advance, look gorgeous and can be creatively positioned on platters just before your guests arrive.  They also have the added benefit of creating the somewhat false impression of you slaving in the kitchen for hours for their benefit... how perfect. 

Serve 6-7 bite size canapés per person with drinks.

Burgundy Shallot Tatins

Caramelise halved shallots in a little butter, sugar and fresh thyme on a low heat until the sugar has dissolved and a golden syrupy consistency is achieved. 

Add half a glass of red wine – preferably Burgundy or something equally robust – and cook until the shallots can be easily pierced with a sharp knife (this will take around 15 minutes). 

Place in the bottom of some mini muffin tins along with the juices. 

Lay a round of puff pastry (cheat and use ready-made for this dish).  Brush with egg wash and bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until risen and golden. 

Invert the tin immediately to avoid the caramel from sticking to the tin.

Medjool Dates stuffed with Stilton Mousse and Caramelised Walnuts

Take some large juicy Medjool dates and slice down the middle, but not through, removing the stones. 

Combine equal ingredients of Stilton cheese with Mascarpone and mix until smooth and creamy in texture. 

Melt a knob of butter with a couple of tablespoons of honey in a saucepan and coat the Walnuts.  Place on a non-stick mat and bake in the oven for 5-6 minutes until nicely caramelised.  Remove from oven and leave a few minutes before moving them.

Pipe the mousse into the recently vacated middle of the dates and top with a piece of caramelised walnut.

Black Forest and White Chocolate Cups

Brush the inside of paper muffin cases with melted dark or milk chocolate.  Repeat 2-3 times to ensure you get a decent coating and will enable the paper case to be removed when set.

Macerate some fresh cherries (cans or jars work fine too but ensure they are drained) in some kirsch for a couple of hours (be generous... it is a celebration).

Whisk up equal quantities or double cream with melted chocolate. 

Place some cherries in the bottom of the chocolate cups, pipe the white chocolate cream on top and decorate with milk chocolate shavings. 

Share them if you are feeling generous or simply indulge yourself.    

The Dark Side... and yet delicious

Today I find myself preparing for the onslaught that is the curse of the Christmas pounds.  By this, I mean one caused by too many glasses of Champagne and the Christmas meat-fest.  Make no mistake I know when to stop, it’s just that sometimes I decide not to.

So for the next couple of days we are heading to the dark side and going healthy.  This, for me, means fish and Thai flavours. 

For supper tonight it’s a fish dish.  Although not completely virtuous it does have a lot less fat than some other dishes.  It also makes a very good starter and would provide the perfect stress free ‘wow’ for those celebration dinners coming up.

Think creamy Prawn Mousse with a Salmon confit marinated in citrus fruits and pink peppercorns and finished with Dijon Mustard and Dill.  Serve with Cucumber salad, a few leaves and some fresh Brown Bread.  Not only gorgeous but positively healthy with all that Omega 3!

And for lunch tomorrow (and if I am lucky the next day too) it is a seriously good Thai Noodle Salad with Chicken and Prawns. 

Prawn Mousse and Confit of Salmon (serves 4 supper or 6 for a starter)

Marinated Salmon

Olive Oil (enough to have 3" in your chosen pan)

Zest of 1 Lime and 1 Lemon

½ Echalion or Banana Shallot (finely diced)

1 tsp Pink Peppercorns

1 tsp fresh ground Sea Salt

1 tsp Caster Sugar

½ kg Fresh Salmon Fillet (skinned and pin boned)

Large handful of Dill

3 tbsp Dijon Mustard

Combine the zest of the lemon and lime, the shallot, the peppercorns, salt, a sprig of dill and the sugar together press onto the salmon.  Leave to marinade in the fridge for at least 4-5 hours.  Wash off the marinade and pat dry. 

Heat the olive oil in a pan until finger touch warm.  Place the salmon in the olive oil, remove from the heat and leave to sit in the oil for 15 minutes.  Gently remove from the pan, drain and remove oil with a kitchen towel.  Using a pastry brush (or something similar) brush over the mustard and sprinkle over the dill pressing onto the salmon.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. 

When ready to serve, slice the salmon.

Prawn Mousse

300g Large Prawns (I like the meatiness of the Tiger Prawns but smaller ones work well too)

250g Mascarpone Cream

1 dsp Horseradish Cream

1 tbsp Dill

Squeeze of Lemon Juice and Black Pepper

In a food processor, combine the prawns, mascarpone, horseradish cream, dill, lemon juice and black pepper and blend to combine until smooth.  Season to taste and set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Cucumber Salad

½ Cucumber, deseeded and thinly sliced

50g Caster Sugar

3 tbsp Chardonnay Wine Vinegar

125 ml Water

In a saucepan, heat up the 3 tbsp of wine vinegar, the sugar and water until the sugar has dissolved.  Pour over the cucumber and stir to combine.  Place in a plastic container and refrigerate until ready to use.  Drain before serving.

Lay all the wonderful dishes you have just made on a platter alongside some brown bread and butter and let everyone help themselves.

And now for lunch...

Chicken and Prawn Thai Noodle Salad

For the Salad

180g Ramen Noodles

4 tbsp Sesame Oil

150g Spouting Broccoli

50g Cashew Nuts

¼ Cucumber (halved, deseeded and sliced)

4 Spring Onions cut into 1cm pieces

150g Asparagus

2 Chicken Thighs (cut into 1 cm slices)

150g Tiger King Prawns

Small bunch of Coriander and Flat Leaf Parsley (roughly chopped)

1/2 inch fresh Ginger finely chopped

2 clove Garlic finely chopped

½ tsp dried Chilli Flakes (more depending on how spicy you like it)

For the Dressing

2 tablespoons Lime Juice

2 tablespoons Asian Fish Sauce (Nam Pla)

4 tablespoons Sesame oil

2 teaspoons White Sugar

First of all combine all the dressing ingredients and mix well.

Pour the sesame oil in a sauté pan and add the chicken, cook for a few minutes turning to get all sides lightly browned.  Add the ginger and garlic and continue to cook for a couple of minutes then add the broccoli, asparagus, cucumber, spring onions and chilli flakes.  Continue to cook for a few more minutes and then add the prawns and cashew nuts.

Pour in the dressing and heat through to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, place the ramen noodles in boiling water and simmer for 4 minutes.  Drain and mix into the other ingredients.  Leave for a few minutes until its cool enough to combine with your hands, add the chopped parsley and coriander and gently combine the salad and noodles with your fingertips.

Season to taste with pepper (you will probably not need salt due to the Nam Pla).  

At this point you can either eat it hot or place in the refrigerator to eat cold as a salad later. 

The flavours intensify and continue to infuse as it sits.  The best thing is that it will be perfectly happy in the fridge for a couple of days meaning it just gets better as you continue to dip in!

In praise of the Ploughman's Lunch

My cravings have recently taken me to the world of the Ploughman’s Platter.  I know many of you may be thinking “really?”, but I am not just talking any Ploughman’s but one with homemade Pork Pie (or my variation on it) and a smooth, creamy and I have to say divine Chicken Liver Pate (for which I have to thank the Rvv as it is he who made it).   Add to the ensemble fat pickled onions, a slice of notably moving Brie and pungent smelling Stilton, some fresh baked bread, cherry tomatoes and a glass of Red you will find yourself instantly transported to a country pub complete with roaring fire and good conversation. 

So if you fancy making something simple for supper one evening here is my recommendation on dressing it up beautifully.

Richard’s Chicken Liver Pate

300g trimmed Chicken Livers (buy 400g before trimming)

2 Shallots finely chopped

3 cloves Garlic finely chopped

3 tbsp Brandy

100ml Double Cream

1 rasher Bacon finely chopped

2 tbsp Butter

Clarified butter (optional)

Salt and Pepper

A handful of Flat Leaf Parsley (chopped)

Fry off the shallots and bacon until soft.  Add the garlic and cook for a couple of minutes.  Add the chicken liver and cook until it starts to change colour.  Season with salt and pepper, add the brandy and cook for a few minutes then add the cream and parsley and cook for another 3 minutes.  Place all the ingredients from the pan into a food processor or blender and add the 2 tablespoons of butter and blitz until smooth.

Tip into a container or pot and cover with clarified butter or cling film.  Refrigerate overnight to set.

Pork, Turkey & Bacon Pie

For the pastry

200g lard (trying to be relatively healthy I use Trex Vegetable Fat)
220g water
575g flour
1 beaten egg
1 small cake tin (20cm) with loose bottom

For the filling

200g Minced Pork

200g Minced Turkey

8 rashers of Streaky Bacon (chopped)

1 tsp fresh Thyme Leaves (finely chopped)

5 fresh Sage Leaves (finely chopped)

½ tsp Ground Allspice

Salt and Pepper

For the Jelly

½ pint good quality Chicken Stock which has formed a jelly (this is very important, if the stock does not form a jelly it is not concentrated enough and you will end up with a wet pie)

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees.

Firstly make the pastry. 

Place the lard and water in a saucepan and heat to a boil.  Once boiling point has been reached remove from the heat and empty in the flour mixing with a wooden spoon forming a wet dough.  Leave until cool enough to handle but it should still be warm to the touch when you put it in the tin.

Take a quarter of the dough and leave to one side.  With the remainder place it in the bottom of the tin and work it over the bottom and up the sides of the tin until it is all covered and slightly overlapping the sides.  Be careful to ensure there are no holes in the pastry and that certain areas are not too thin as this will mean leakage when you pour in the stock.

With the remaining quarter of the pastry, either roll it out or use your hands to flatten it as a top for the pie.

Place all the filling ingredients into a food processor fitted with a blade and blitz until well combined.  Using your hands put the meat mixture into the pastry gently pushing down to remove any air bubbles or spaces.  Place the top of the pastry on top and then using the bits hanging over the sides use these with the top to seal the pie by pinching with your fingers all the way round.  Use the handle of a wooden spoon to make a hole in the top middle of the pie pushing it almost all the way down the pie (but not through the bottom).

Place the pie in the oven for 30 minutes.  After this time, reduce the temperature of the oven to 160 degrees and cook for a further 90 minutes.  I know this may seem like a long time but it will be fine (trust me!).  After the 90 minutes remove from the oven, brush the top with egg and then put back in the oven for a final 30 minutes.  OK that is it for the cooking so remove from the oven and re-establish the hole in the top with the wooden spoon again as it may have sealed itself during cooking.

Heat the jellied stock until liquid and then gently pour into the hole in the pie until it seems full.  Place in the refrigerator overnight to set.

This may seem a little long-winded but it is definitely worth it and I guarantee you will never look at shop brought pork pies again in the same way.

Duck and Lamb Cassoulet (Peasant Food? I don't think so...)

Aimlessly wandering around the garden yesterday morning in my PJs watching the sunrise - gorgeous by the way - having said my ‘good mornings’ to the ladies (chicks), I came to the conclusion that winter was definitely on its way.  There was frost on the ground, an ice cold chill in the air and I finally understood why my sisters were excitedly counting down the days to Christmas already (although it is still a little early for me to be thinking like that).

So with that in mind, my stomach tells my brain (you would think it’s the other way around wouldn’t you?) to salivate for winter stews, roast dinners, honey parsnips and, yesterday morning, for rustic slow cooked Cassoulet.  Now it may not look the most tempting dish in the world (its difficult to pretty up beans and meat in a dish) but sometimes you have to think flavour first.

Start this the night before, put in a low oven or slow cooker before you trot off to work and when you return indulge in the most deliciously wonderful flavours this dish offers.  Depending on where in France you go, sometimes they add all different cuts of meats and sometimes skin, for me this is perfect just with slow cooked tender meat without the wibbley bits!

A word of warning... If you are planning on kissing someone new you may want to lay off a bit on the garlic, either that or I suggest you invite them for dinner as a precursor.

1 Shoulder of Lamb (get the butcher to bone it for you but keep the bones for cooking)

2 Duck Legs

8 Chipolata Sausages

1 Stick of Celery

1 Carrot

1 Onion

Small bunch of fresh herbs tied together – Rosemary, Thyme, Bay, Parsley, Bay

1 Bottle of Dry White Wine

1 Pint Water

250g Harricot Beans (dried are great, tins are OK too)

10 cloves of Garlic peeled but not chopped

Drizzle of Olive Oil

Handful of chopped Flat Leaf Parsley and Coriander (to finish)

If you are using dried Harricot Beans then the night before you want to cook the Cassoulet you need to soak the beans in cold water. 

The next day start by finely chopping the onion, celery and carrot to a brunoise (this is a cheffy term whereby you slice the vegetables into a fine julienne about 1-2mm thick and then finely dice them all the same size).

In a large frying pan fry the duck legs off skin side down to crisp them up.  While this is happening cut the lamb up into large chunks (about 2-3” squared).  Add this to the duck along with the sausages.  You are not trying to cook them at this time just seal the meat.  Place the meats in a large casserole dish with a lid along with the bones.

Sauté off the vegetables, add the garlic and then add to the meat mixture.  Drain the beans and add into the meat and vegetables.  Pour the bottle of wine into the casserole dish, season and stir to combine.  Add in the herb bundle, put on the lid and place in the oven.  Cook for 1 hour at 200 degrees then reduce the temperature to a very low setting (about 120 degrees) for between 5-7 hours.  Check half way through to make sure there is still liquid.  If it is running dry then add the water and return to the oven.

I like to leave my cassoulet until the next day to eat.  This is for two reasons, 1) I can remove any fat which has come to the top making it healthier without losing the flavour and 2) the flavours continue to develop and it becomes even more wonderful.

When you are ready to eat heat the cassoulet through in the oven, remove the bones and give these to the dogs, gently stir through the parsley and coriander (you can add a slight squeeze of fresh lemon if you want extra zizz) and then dive straight in.

Now why this originated as peasant food I have no idea.  Clearly the peasants had far better taste in food than those financially better off!

For the Love of Risotto

I come clean!  In our house it’s the Rvvv who cooks the rice (that and a couple more dishes such as Yorkshire Puddings and an excellent Ragu).  It’s not that I cannot make it.  It’s just that I get bored part way through and unconsciously meander into some other activity until the smell pervading the kitchen (reminiscent of bonfire night) brings me back to the present time.  This, of course, ends in tears - or rather a milky, starchy mass of tasteless mush some of which would by choice prefer to stay on the bottom of the pan forever. 

When it comes to Risotto however this is not a problem because it is by definition rather needy (i.e. requiring constant attention during cooking).   This is a good thing because there is no opportunity for boredom and there are few things that compare with a good risotto.  Any dish that can taste so nice with just a few ingredients – and most of them pretty healthy – has got to be good.  Even better, you can make Arancini (fabulous moist mouthfuls of risotto heaven in a crisp coating) with the leftovers so this makes two dishes in one! 

The sweet Butternut Squash, salty Feta cheese and fragrant Sage in this recipe are great for both the Risotto and the Arancini and just a little bit different to the norm. 

When you serve the leftovers to your family or friends, don’t worry about telling them that you’ve put your feet up for a couple of hours with your book and let them continue to think you’ve been slaving away for hours in the kitchen – surely it’s not a lie if they simply jump to that conclusion themselves?

1 Onion finely chopped
2 cloves of Garlic finely chopped
25g Butter
2 litres good fresh stock (I like to use Chicken unless I am serving up to Vegetarians)
400g Risotto Rice
100g unsalted butter, cold and diced
100g Feta Cheese
Handful of fresh Sage (finely sliced)
1 Butternut Squash (peeled and chopped into small mouth-size pieces)
25g Parmesan or Grand Padano
1 Glass of Wine (pour it as though you were drinking it yourself so a decent glass full)

First of all, roast the butternut squash with the sage and garlic in the oven for around 20 minutes with a drizzle of olive oil mixed into it.  It should be just cooked through but still al-dente.  Remove from oven and set aside.

To prepare the risotto, bring the stock to a boil and leave it simmering on the stove next to you.

Sauté the onion in 25g butter in a large pan until it is just starting to go translucent, you do not want to brown it.  Add the rice and stir through trying to get all the rice coated in the butter-onion mixture.  Add the glass of wine and continue to stir frequently while the wine reduces to practically nothing, this will remove the alcohol but leave the lovely wine taste. 

Start adding the stock a ladleful at a time and stir to avoid the rice sticking.  As the stock is absorbed by the rice keep adding stock a ladleful at a time (I did warn you this is a needy dish).  After about 10 minutes you can add the roasted butternut squash and sage to the rice mixture and continue to add the stock as before combining as you go by stirring the risotto.

At this point you want to start keeping an eye on the risotto in terms of how much longer it will need cooking.  It will normally take between 18-25 minutes to cook depending on the risotto rice.  You should be looking for a slightly al-dente texture with some looseness to the dish.  When you think it is just about where it should be, add the feta cheese and seasoning and stir to combine.  Be careful when adding salt as the feta is salty anyway so you may not need as much as you would normally use.

To finish, grate in some parmesan (to taste) and the cold cubes of butter (again amount to suit your own taste).  Grab a spoon or fork and dive in.

Now the chances are you may have some left.  If you do, leave it to cool in the refrigerator overnight and then the next day scoop out dessert spoonfuls roll in egg and then in breadcrumbs and deep fry until golden brown.  


From a gorgeous Risotto to Aranchini in a couple of steps!  These are great either hot or at room temperature and make a nice nibble with drinks.

Drunken Puddleduck

Imagine if you will long, lazy lunches outside in the sunshine consisting of simple foods cooked with bags of flavour and good company which cannot be surpassed.  Without wanting to preach, I find it is often the simplest of occasions I remember more than the rest.  Times when you find yourself with others who are just happy being there.  No pretentious acts, no competition, just a desire to be there, chat about the inanities of life and giggle at the absurd with the people you love most in the world.  This, for me, is what the best times in life bring to the table (pardon the pun) – just being you - loving and being loved for it.

I just love the versatility of duck.  I love the different ways you can cook it, the different cuts and dependent upon how you cook it, the way it can take on a different texture and taste.  To me, duck is quite the chameleon. 

I especially love Confit of Duck.  I first tried Confit in France while there on holiday and no matter how often I eat it or where I am in the world, it always reminds me of easy going, laugh out loud lunches with friends.

This dish needs a little preparation but otherwise is so simple it can hardly be called cooking.  It does however make you drool with wanting for more and sounds as though you have spent hours cooking rather than the reality which is that it pretty much cooks itself.

Given the influence of the cooking liquid used I have given this dish a name which, I believe, is entirely appropriate – not to you but the dish.  If you don’t like Port then just substitute with white wine, it is still remarkably good.

P.S. For those who have not tried this before, Confit (French) (pronounced "con-fee") is a term for describing kinds of food which are slowly cooked in their own juices and/or other substances for both flavour and preservation.  Sealed after cooking in their juices, the food will often last for several weeks which make it a great dinner party choice.  Duck and Chicken are the usual suspects for Confit.

Duck Confit
4 Duck Legs
Rock Salt (enough to cover the duck legs - sounds alot but don't worry you are not going to eat it)
1 tsp Black Peppercorns
4 Garlic Cloves (peeled and sliced)
2 Bay Leaves
4 Thyme Sprigs
100ml Port (or Wine if you prefer)


The duck needs to be prepared a day in advance.  Place the duck in a container skin side up and cover with the salt, peppercorns, bay and the thyme.  Place in the fridge overnight or for around 8 hours.


The next day...


Remove the thyme.  Wash the duck legs to remove the salt and dry with a paper towel.  Place in a tight fitting saucepan, add the garlic and the thyme and pour over the port.  Place over a low heat until the port just starts to bubble and then place in a low oven (about 110 degrees) for about for 3 hours.  Check it after this time, it should be very tender and have lots of juice (made from the port and the duck fat).


Leave the duck in the juices to cool.  The fat will protect it and keep it moist while it is refrigerated until you wish to eat it.  


Butter Bean, Wild Mushroom and Pancetta Stew
2 cans Butter Beans
8 slices Pancetta or Streaky Bacon (chopped)
2 Shallots
200g Wild Mushrooms
1 Garlic Clove (peeled and finely chopped)
2 sprigs Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
900g Chicken Stock
2 tbsp Olive Oil
Handful of Flat Leaf Parsley (finely chopped)
100g Chestnuts (cooked and chopped into quarters)


In a saute pan (or large frying pan), heat through the olive oil and add the shallots gently cooking until starting to caramelise.  Add the pancetta, garlic, herbs and wild mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes.  Add the butter beans, chicken stock and chestnuts and cook for a further 20 minutes on a low heat.  


Heat the oven to 200 degrees.  Remove the duck from the pan and place on a rack in the oven for 10 minutes until the skin is crispy and the duck heated through (this should take 10-15 minutes).


Season the bean, mushroom and pancetta stew to taste then stir in the parsley just before serving.  Place the duck on top of the stew.  


Sit down with friends, a bottle of wine and practice your French.  Now tell me that is not wonderful...