Live Life, Love Food

Whether you are an all-round Francophile or just have a long-standing love affair with food, there is something about France that evokes desires for long lazy lunches.  Add to that colourful market stalls piled high with seasonal produce, narrow streets, culinary genius’ expounding their skills to tempt you to their restaurant, powerful cheeses and earthy wild mushrooms and you can practically change nationalities (at least when on holiday).  And that’s before we start discussing wine choices...

In France, the three designated timeslots for eating are not to be messed with and are an integral and readily adopted part of life.

With an early morning call beckoning, breakfast in France is usually quite simple.  Freshly baked breads, croissant, fruit and newly ground coffee (strong enough to stand your spoon in) is the only really civilised start to the day.  Lunch provides a break from the proceedings of the day and the opportunity to relax, chat and partake in a couple of hours of fine food and anything up to three courses.   Dinner is usually even grander.  Surely it would be rude to refuse getting involved in such fine local traditions?

As a nation how many times during the week do we British run to ‘grab a sandwich’, eat it while doing the other ten things we need to do and then wonder why we suffer from indigestion?  And if you thought about it, what would be the average length of time we spend at the table eating our dinner... 30 minutes? 20?

The French take their eating very seriously and, while some will inevitably take the indigestion route, in the main the French take time to enjoy their food and the traditions that go with it.  No matter where you go in France you will always be able to find a veritable feast within a few hundred metres (but don’t forget that the shops will likely be closed at lunch time!).  From the beautiful patisseries and boulangeries, to local restaurants offering a vast array of traditional, modern and classic French fare there is something to suit almost every taste and budget.

With all the choice and commitment to food I used to wonder how on earth the French are not high ranking on the obesity polls.  The simple truth seems to be not about eating huge or unhealthy meals.  It’s the complete opposite.  For the French it is all about the event itself; taking the time to digest food properly, making the most of the fresh ingredients and catching up with friends, colleagues and family.

It seems only right to test this theory to the full and see how beneficial this way of life is.  Next step, indulge in some French themed food and wine, understand a little bit more of the traditions and methods and relax with close company.  I feel better already...

Chicken Liver Parfait with Roasted Pear Salad (serves 4)

300g (trimmed weight) Chicken Livers soaked in milk for 30 minutes
2 Shallots finely chopped
3 cloves Garlic finely chopped
3 tbsp Brandy
100ml Double Cream
1 rasher Bacon finely chopped
2 tbsp Butter
Clarified butter (optional)
Salt and Pepper
A handful of Flat Leaf Parsley (chopped)

2 large Pears
25g Butter
Sprig of fresh Thyme
Drizzle of Lemon Juice
Rocket or other lettuce leaves drizzled with olive oil
4 slices toasted Brioche (to serve)

Fry off the shallots and bacon until soft.  Add the garlic and cook for a couple of minutes.  Add the chicken liver and cook until it starts to change colour.  Season with salt and pepper, add the brandy and cook for a few minutes then add the cream and parsley and cook for another 3 minutes.  Place all the ingredients from the pan into a food processor or blender and add the 2 tablespoons of butter and blitz until completely smooth.  Push through a sieve to ensure it is completely smooth and all sinew is removed.

Tip into a container or pot and cover with clarified butter or cling film.  Refrigerate overnight to set.

Core and peel the pears cutting into quarters, toss in the lemon juice.  Put in the oven with the butter and thyme and roast for 10-15 minutes at 180 degrees until caramelising and just cooked through.  Set aside and leave to cool.

Remove the parfait from the fridge and serve with the rocket salad, roasted pears and toasted brioche. 

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Duck Breast with Blackberry Sauce (serves 4)

4 Duck Breasts (Gressingham have great flavour)
225g Blackberries
1 tbsp Red Currant Jelly with Port
1 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar
100ml Chicken Stock
½ stick Celery
½ Carrot
1 Shallot
1 clove Garlic
Drizzle Olive Oil
1 tbsp Whipping/Double Cream

Roughly chop the carrot, celery, shallot and garlic and sauté in the olive oil until the onion and garlic are going translucent but not browning.

Add half of the blackberries, the red currant jelly and balsamic vinegar and cook over a medium-low heat until the blackberries are broken down – around 15 minutes.  Remove from the hob and leave to cool slightly.  Pour into a liquidiser and blend.  Pour through a sieve (to remove any leftover bits, we only want the juices) and return to the pan.  Season and keep warm.

Prepare the duck by scoring the skin and seasoning with salt and pepper and a little fresh thyme.  Place skin side down in a hot (oven proof) frying pan and cook for 2 minutes each side.  Turn the duck breasts over so they are skin side up and place the pan in the oven at 180 degrees for 10-12 minutes (for rare to medium).  Leave in a few minutes longer if you want it better cooked.  Remove from the oven and the pan and leave the duck to rest while you finish off the sauce.

Bring the sauce back up to heat, stir in the cream and set aside keeping warm.

Slice the duck on an angle and serve with the sauce and a couple of whole blackberries for decoration.  

Serve with Celeriac and Potato Dauphinoise or mash.

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Apple Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Cream (serves 4 with leftovers)

Apple Tarte Tatin was originally invented by two sisters in the town of Lamotte-Beuvron in Central France.  It is quite possibly one of the easiest and most famous French desserts dating back to 1898.

1 pack readymade Puff Pastry (life really is too short to make it from scratch)
4 eating Apples
25g Butter (melted)
25g Soft Brown Sugar (if using cooking apples double the sugar)
20ml Brandy or Calvados
Double Cream whipped and flavoured with Vanilla Seeds
Toasted Almonds (to serve)

Peel, core and slice the apples into 8 equal pieces.  Combine the melted butter with the sugar and brandy in a bowl and add the apple slices tossing them in the mixture so they are evenly coated. 

Lay the apple in the bottom of a cake tin or tarte tatin dish so the slices overlap close together and the bottom is completely covered by apples.  Pour over any remaining juices.

Roll the pastry out to a circle slightly larger than the tin and lay on top of the apples pushing the edges down around the edge.  Brush with egg wash and place in a hot oven (200 degrees) for 20-25 minutes until the pastry is risen and golden brown.  Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes before inverting onto a plate.  Serve with thickened cream flavoured with the seeds from a vanilla pod and a sprinkling of toasted almonds if desired.