For the Love of Risotto

I come clean!  In our house it’s the Rvvv who cooks the rice (that and a couple more dishes such as Yorkshire Puddings and an excellent Ragu).  It’s not that I cannot make it.  It’s just that I get bored part way through and unconsciously meander into some other activity until the smell pervading the kitchen (reminiscent of bonfire night) brings me back to the present time.  This, of course, ends in tears - or rather a milky, starchy mass of tasteless mush some of which would by choice prefer to stay on the bottom of the pan forever. 

When it comes to Risotto however this is not a problem because it is by definition rather needy (i.e. requiring constant attention during cooking).   This is a good thing because there is no opportunity for boredom and there are few things that compare with a good risotto.  Any dish that can taste so nice with just a few ingredients – and most of them pretty healthy – has got to be good.  Even better, you can make Arancini (fabulous moist mouthfuls of risotto heaven in a crisp coating) with the leftovers so this makes two dishes in one! 

The sweet Butternut Squash, salty Feta cheese and fragrant Sage in this recipe are great for both the Risotto and the Arancini and just a little bit different to the norm. 

When you serve the leftovers to your family or friends, don’t worry about telling them that you’ve put your feet up for a couple of hours with your book and let them continue to think you’ve been slaving away for hours in the kitchen – surely it’s not a lie if they simply jump to that conclusion themselves?

1 Onion finely chopped
2 cloves of Garlic finely chopped
25g Butter
2 litres good fresh stock (I like to use Chicken unless I am serving up to Vegetarians)
400g Risotto Rice
100g unsalted butter, cold and diced
100g Feta Cheese
Handful of fresh Sage (finely sliced)
1 Butternut Squash (peeled and chopped into small mouth-size pieces)
25g Parmesan or Grand Padano
1 Glass of Wine (pour it as though you were drinking it yourself so a decent glass full)

First of all, roast the butternut squash with the sage and garlic in the oven for around 20 minutes with a drizzle of olive oil mixed into it.  It should be just cooked through but still al-dente.  Remove from oven and set aside.

To prepare the risotto, bring the stock to a boil and leave it simmering on the stove next to you.

Sauté the onion in 25g butter in a large pan until it is just starting to go translucent, you do not want to brown it.  Add the rice and stir through trying to get all the rice coated in the butter-onion mixture.  Add the glass of wine and continue to stir frequently while the wine reduces to practically nothing, this will remove the alcohol but leave the lovely wine taste. 

Start adding the stock a ladleful at a time and stir to avoid the rice sticking.  As the stock is absorbed by the rice keep adding stock a ladleful at a time (I did warn you this is a needy dish).  After about 10 minutes you can add the roasted butternut squash and sage to the rice mixture and continue to add the stock as before combining as you go by stirring the risotto.

At this point you want to start keeping an eye on the risotto in terms of how much longer it will need cooking.  It will normally take between 18-25 minutes to cook depending on the risotto rice.  You should be looking for a slightly al-dente texture with some looseness to the dish.  When you think it is just about where it should be, add the feta cheese and seasoning and stir to combine.  Be careful when adding salt as the feta is salty anyway so you may not need as much as you would normally use.

To finish, grate in some parmesan (to taste) and the cold cubes of butter (again amount to suit your own taste).  Grab a spoon or fork and dive in.

Now the chances are you may have some left.  If you do, leave it to cool in the refrigerator overnight and then the next day scoop out dessert spoonfuls roll in egg and then in breadcrumbs and deep fry until golden brown.  


From a gorgeous Risotto to Aranchini in a couple of steps!  These are great either hot or at room temperature and make a nice nibble with drinks.

Drunken Puddleduck

Imagine if you will long, lazy lunches outside in the sunshine consisting of simple foods cooked with bags of flavour and good company which cannot be surpassed.  Without wanting to preach, I find it is often the simplest of occasions I remember more than the rest.  Times when you find yourself with others who are just happy being there.  No pretentious acts, no competition, just a desire to be there, chat about the inanities of life and giggle at the absurd with the people you love most in the world.  This, for me, is what the best times in life bring to the table (pardon the pun) – just being you - loving and being loved for it.

I just love the versatility of duck.  I love the different ways you can cook it, the different cuts and dependent upon how you cook it, the way it can take on a different texture and taste.  To me, duck is quite the chameleon. 

I especially love Confit of Duck.  I first tried Confit in France while there on holiday and no matter how often I eat it or where I am in the world, it always reminds me of easy going, laugh out loud lunches with friends.

This dish needs a little preparation but otherwise is so simple it can hardly be called cooking.  It does however make you drool with wanting for more and sounds as though you have spent hours cooking rather than the reality which is that it pretty much cooks itself.

Given the influence of the cooking liquid used I have given this dish a name which, I believe, is entirely appropriate – not to you but the dish.  If you don’t like Port then just substitute with white wine, it is still remarkably good.

P.S. For those who have not tried this before, Confit (French) (pronounced "con-fee") is a term for describing kinds of food which are slowly cooked in their own juices and/or other substances for both flavour and preservation.  Sealed after cooking in their juices, the food will often last for several weeks which make it a great dinner party choice.  Duck and Chicken are the usual suspects for Confit.

Duck Confit
4 Duck Legs
Rock Salt (enough to cover the duck legs - sounds alot but don't worry you are not going to eat it)
1 tsp Black Peppercorns
4 Garlic Cloves (peeled and sliced)
2 Bay Leaves
4 Thyme Sprigs
100ml Port (or Wine if you prefer)


The duck needs to be prepared a day in advance.  Place the duck in a container skin side up and cover with the salt, peppercorns, bay and the thyme.  Place in the fridge overnight or for around 8 hours.


The next day...


Remove the thyme.  Wash the duck legs to remove the salt and dry with a paper towel.  Place in a tight fitting saucepan, add the garlic and the thyme and pour over the port.  Place over a low heat until the port just starts to bubble and then place in a low oven (about 110 degrees) for about for 3 hours.  Check it after this time, it should be very tender and have lots of juice (made from the port and the duck fat).


Leave the duck in the juices to cool.  The fat will protect it and keep it moist while it is refrigerated until you wish to eat it.  


Butter Bean, Wild Mushroom and Pancetta Stew
2 cans Butter Beans
8 slices Pancetta or Streaky Bacon (chopped)
2 Shallots
200g Wild Mushrooms
1 Garlic Clove (peeled and finely chopped)
2 sprigs Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
900g Chicken Stock
2 tbsp Olive Oil
Handful of Flat Leaf Parsley (finely chopped)
100g Chestnuts (cooked and chopped into quarters)


In a saute pan (or large frying pan), heat through the olive oil and add the shallots gently cooking until starting to caramelise.  Add the pancetta, garlic, herbs and wild mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes.  Add the butter beans, chicken stock and chestnuts and cook for a further 20 minutes on a low heat.  


Heat the oven to 200 degrees.  Remove the duck from the pan and place on a rack in the oven for 10 minutes until the skin is crispy and the duck heated through (this should take 10-15 minutes).


Season the bean, mushroom and pancetta stew to taste then stir in the parsley just before serving.  Place the duck on top of the stew.  


Sit down with friends, a bottle of wine and practice your French.  Now tell me that is not wonderful...